Seems to be the color of the season. It can be worn in more conventional ways, but if you really want a jaw-dropping look try a red trouser suit like the flawless one we saw at Dsquared2, or a long transparent hight-waist pleated skirt Olivier Rousteing included in his collection for Balmain. The color of passion and fire, it is bold enough to need nothing more than a couple of minimal accessories to be paired with.
Checked patterns on clothes inspired by different decades, ranging from the 40s to the 70s, created statement looks at the Balmain, the Oscar de la Renta and the Altuzara shows. There really was one piece for every taste this season, both ladylike and fierce pieces and chic and easy-to-wear ones. Pair them with flat sandals for effortless morning looks or with ankle strap heels if you prefer them for eveningwear.
‘‘Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking.’’ says Miranda Priestly (in ‘‘The Devil Wears Prada’’ in –no- case you have missed this movie). Yet, even though all creative directors and editors brainstorm to come up with really groundbreaking ideas for spring, flowers always seem to find their way back in the collections. From the abstract ones at Burberry Prorsum, Chanel and Max Mara to the embroidered ones at Dolce & Gabbana they all urged us to embrace spring, which is officially here. They come in all possible colors and are simply a pleasure to the eye- just pick the one that talks to your heart.
Summer is not far away either, and navy style is always chic and a good option for days spent by the sea. An Emporio Armani striped high-waist pair of shorts paired with matching sneakers or a perfect Chanel striped cardigan are two of the best pieces we spotted this season. Big sunglasses are recommended.
Why go just for the white tee? Carolina Herrera, Christian Dior, Elie Saab and other maisons took it to the next level by showing fresh, total white outfits that give a sense of cleanliness and lightness.
THE TROUSER SUIT
Androgynous –should we still call it that?- could not be missed. Trouser suits were seen in numerous collections including Chanel, Christian Dior, Armani, and of course, Hugo Boss. Some were simple white or midnight blue ones, others came with a twist; in jungle green or with wide white and blue stripes. A good suit is a must-have, so invest in one that works for you and wear it with slip ons or pointed heels accordingly.
Diaphanous fabrics were widely used this season. From sophisticated cuts at Jason Wu to ethereal cuts at Chloe and Valentino, all the pieces softly hugged the body. For these pieces to go from the runway to our closets is another story though. Most women don’t feel really comfortable wearing see-through clothes without a bra or wearing clothes that let all their underwear exposed to the eye. However, if you think about it, in the summer we all wear swimwear, right? Which is made by the same amount of fabric that underwear is. From this perspective, summer is the perfect excuse to fall in love with these beautiful transparent pieces and feel proud of our bodies as well. For those who find it provocative, just pair them with your favorite underwear. Bras without a wire, lace and sporty underwear look really good under these pieces.
It is back! And it was literally everywhere. Hippy, easy-going pieces were shown at Proenza Schouler and Etro. Cocktail dresses and red carpet creations were stunning at Giambatista Valli and Costume National shows respectively. Marvelous red fringed ponchos stood out at Dolce & Gabbana. And if in a rebellious impulse you crave for a cowgirl-like attitude, then you will instantly fall for the Emilio Pucci fringed suede trousers. This season fringe is not only for the boho chic lovers, it is for everyone.
It is a fabric we mostly encounter when it comes to bags and shoes, but this season suede pieces were present at almost every single show. They came in various colors, from beige fringed coats at Alberta Ferretti to baby blue shorts and jackets at Costume National to Dartmouth green calf-length coats at Burberry Prorsum. They are an ideal choice for breezy spring evenings (and mornings), as they are warm but the colors are nothing but moody.
The all-time-classic piece that creates a whole outfit by itself has been seen a lot lately. This season wear a midnight blue or black minimal one from Celine or Kenzo, but if you are in a rock mood go straight to Givenchy. Sophisticated, more gala-appropriate cuts were mastered by Elie Saab. The best thing about them is that you can wear from day to night by just changing your accessories.
Some said that they will be –or should be- out this season, but guess what- they are still here and better than ever. Statement striped ones at Balmain, simple short-sleeved white ones at Dsquared2, wrap ones with plunging necklines at Diane von Furstenberg, sleeveless checked ones at Oscar de la Renta, were worn mostly with skirts of various lengths and some with trousers, too. Next time you feel like wearing a dress try a cropped top and high-waist skirt combination instead.
Of course. I don’t know if it is a trend anymore- it exists in everyone’s closet. What changes is the attitude, the way you wear it. There is a certain type of denim that some hate and others die for: embellished. And Dolce & Gabbana brought it BACK. Wear it with plain tees –black or white preferably- or sleeveless transparent or lace tops for lady chic attitude. Clear denim cuts were shown at Kenzo end Stella McCartney. The length for this season is capri. Skinny or ripped pieces are taking a break so just leave them out of the suitcase when packing for Easter or summer vacation.
Khaki was interpreted perfectly at Chanel and Marc Jacobs; a suede midi military-like dress worn over matching wide trousers and a wide hourglass-shaped dress. Tip: mix it with bright colors.
THE WHITE SHIRT
Revised. Pioneer woman kind of shirts at Chanel, super bright white shirts buttoned to the collar at Hugo Boss, and -this is going to be worn a LOT this season- plunging neckline no-button shirts at Tory Burch. One is never enough, so try the different approaches to the classic shirt.
ALL THAT GLITTER
Someone said ‘‘Life is short. Wear sequins.’’ An applause, please. I say life is short, wear anything that makes your heart melt just at the sight of it. Be that glitter? So be it. Don’t be afraid to be bold, glitter is never enough. The fashion houses seem to know that, too. From minimalism lovers like Calvin Klein, to designers that always create the most jaw-dropping red-carpet pieces like Giorgio Armani and Elie Saab, to more futuristic houses such as Alexander McQueen and Mary Katrantzou, they all presented a variety of mesmerizing pieces.
Romanticism also made a strong presence at the Spring/Summer collections. White is the prevailing color and the pieces are heartfelt, fluid, flawless. Many of them remind us of the pioneer woman. Either you prefer long sheer dresses or mini lace dresses, the variety is anything but narrow.
THE SHEER FACTOR
The translucent fabrics at Giorgio Armani, Emilio Pucci and Valentino, just to mention a few, have us already day dreaming about summer days. Pastel blue, lime green, beige and silver colors in different lengths, cuts, shapes. Ideally worn with minimal accessories and sleek hair dos.
Go for boho chic. You can’t go wrong with an astounding dark blue total Chloe look consisting of a transparent fluted-sleeved short blouse and a matching floor-length ethereal skirt paired with gladiator sandals, can you? Or a breathtaking Altuzara plunging-neckline, sheer, gold floral gown that straightly made us dream of Middle-East summer nights. For daytime, beautiful and easy-to-wear pieces go to Etro.
The flower power is literary here, since hippies are back! Fluid lace dresses with flower embellishments at Marchesa, worn with platforms and flower wreaths on the hair were simply liberating. A playful long-sleeved mini floral dress worn with floral orange Doctor Martens kind of boots was seen at the Jeremy Scott show. Time to show inner peaceful rebel!
THE SPORT FACTOR
We see more and more couture and sophisticated pieces being worn with sneakers or other sport accessories. Remember that time when Chiara Ferragni paired a Preen maxi yellow lace dress with… white sneakers? Mixing elegant pieces with sportswear used to be kind of a fashion taboo, but not anymore. Yellow sequined dresses worn with white sneakers at Burberry Prorsum, sheer skirts worn with white and blue ankle sneakers at Emprorio Armani, soccer sportswear inspired pieces at Alexander Wang.
It is time for vivid colors! Bright yellow at Acne Studios, red and blue stripes at Antonio Marras, pink at Moschino, turquoise at Issey Miyake. Bright colors have a magical power. Instant confidence boost, instant feeling of happiness. Who wants to stick to neutrals?
A Piet Mondrian painting inspired print at Balmain, polka dots at Dolce & Gabbana, stripes and circles at Versace. Graphic prints are a must this season; just find your statement one.
Winter blues are gone for good but summer blues are here and we love them. Powder blues at Shalayan, lavender blues at Loewe, baby blues at Moschino, dodger blues at Ungaro, light blues at Fendi. Your only doubt will be about which one to choose- and why choose only one?
Written by Despina Vergidi
Photographs from style.com