It was just after releasing their new advertisement campaigns—the latest “Calvin Klein By Appointment” and the underwear campaign, far-off from “I_in #mycalvins”— that the anticipated Calvin Klein collection under Raf Simons creative helm debuted at New York Fashion Week. He is known to be a minimalist—his collections at Dior were the exact opposite to those of his predecessor, John Galliano; neat silhouettes with a slight touch of art, one of Simons’ most valuable virtues. After his spontaneous exit from the Parisian maison, Calvin Klein seemed the only brand to suit his distinctive aesthetic.
America was the theme. Everything making America so great. And as it is to be expected from an ever such American brand, Mulier and Simons brought its authentic DNA back. “All of these different people with different styles and dress codes. It’s the future, the past, Art Deco, the city, the American West...all of these things and none of these things. Not one era, not one thing, not one look. It is the coming together of different characters and different individuals, just like America itself. It is the unique beauty and emotion of America,” he said.
From the colour blocking bursts—structured silhouettes in vivid colours—to the incredible reflection on the 80’s—oversized jackets and fitted pants—the collection strolled down the catwalk complimenting the work of artist Sterling Ruby. The outstanding pieces? A yellow coat covered in plastic to add protection, and the plastified plumed dresses. Making quite a contrast were the ribbed knitted sleeves in bright hues and the denim looks—something we can expect from a Calvin Klein collection.
As we celebrate a fantastic debut, both Mulier and Simons excelled at reviving the brand in a playful and beautiful manner, the refreshing and modern approach will keep Calvin Klein as one of the most anticipated shows in the fashion calendar; surely as an unpredictable yet exciting one.
Written by MARÍA JOSÉ GONZÁLVEZ
Photos courtesey of CALVIN KLEIN
Visual Edior MARÍA JOSÉ GONZÁLVEZ