Sarah Burton has long since proven her worth at the helm of the magical Alexander McQueen brand, churning out consecutive collections of ethereal, romantic gowns and otherwise, always with a slight hint of the masculine roughness of which the late McQueen himself was so fond. For her Spring/Summer ’17 collection, Burton traveled with her team to the northern land of the Shetland Isles, far off the coast of Scotland, to research the local craft of knitted wool and gather inspiration for the collection. The result was a haunting journey of couture handiwork that tells a story like only a McQueen collection can do.
Paper thin woven lace gowns and tops began the show, accented with leather harnesses, jackets and belts, perfectly embodying the hard/soft nature of McQueen, which moved into the northern influence with plaid suits and thick woolen sweaters paired with studded black boots. The collection segued between old world romanticism with square necked peasant dresses with ruffles and delicate patterns, to modern denim paired with embroidered coats and bustiers, each detailed with cut away flaps on the front for subtle sex appeal and modern tailoring. Gorgeous floral prints appeared on dresses, both short and long, always accented by feminine ruffles that hinted at the promise of spring and renewal, not to be overshadowed by the inevitable darkness of black lace and leather that appeared towards the end of the show. Burton closed her collection with a stunning array of gowns including a long sleeved black lace dress with the most intricately beautiful embroidery straight out of a Victorian fantasy, and a finale gown that appeared to have risen from the sea with a metallic silver tidal wave crashing across the model’s torso, capped with delicate tulle that mimicked a crashing wave as each step was taken down the runway.
Written by LIZ KRAMSKY
Photos by GERSON LIRIO
Visual editor IVAN GUERRERO