One of the two most anticipated shows this season, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. The Chloé’s boho-chic girl was revitalised by Natacha Ramsay-Levi who took the creative helm at the French label in May. The designer has a remarkable resumé; she was Nicolas Ghesquière’s righthand at Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton, and had a sentimental relationship with artist, and Co-Founder of Purple Magazine, Olivier Zahm. Hence a debut to live for.
Her cultivated aesthetic unleashed a plethora of ethereal possibilities. The collection spoke for itself—the bohemian vibes were infused with tribal elements and earth tones. As Ghesquiére’s apprentice, silhouettes were conspicuously bold yet there was some lightness in-between—velvet pairs emblazoned with a stallion pattern, and delicate blouses with subtle pleated necks. It is only reasonable to start an era at a house and dig into the archives. In there, designers start their creative journey whilst familiarising with the house’s DNA.
As a French girl herself, Ramsay-Levi was sure to bring that sexiness and elegance that epitomises the country’s style; savoir-faire so to speak. And art as a driving culture in France, was present too in the accessories—rings hooked on to one another, and a sculptural thorax as a necklace charm alluding to Venus—and patterns.
Hinted on Chloé’s Instagram account days before the show, the anatomy of women’s bodies traced the foundation of the composition. Inspired by female artists—including by her predecessors—she empowered and depicted the female role as a dominant character in society. Amidst the feminist climate, Natacha Ramsay-Levi debut as creative director was an astute take on her intellectual ideals. She certainly started to build up her name upon vehemence. From now on, she is Chloé.
Written by MARÍA JOSÉ GONZÁLVEZ
Photos by Swan Gallet/WWD/REX/Shutterstock via The Guardian