The house of Dior has a long history of feminism, with it’s founder Monsieur Christian Dior ushering in the era of the “New Look” in post-war France, modernizing impeccable tailoring and feminine suits for women. The Galliano Era took a different approach, capitalizing on the excess and freedom of the late 90’s with over the top costumes and a more Haute Couture approach to fashion. Raf will be remembered for his florals and structure; which then brings us to the current era of Maria Grazia Chiuri. Never before have the words “sportswear”, “casual” or “millennial” been associated so closely with the famed French house, however Chiuri is in the midst of a restructuring of sorts, making the brand accessible and appealing to younger buyers, while remaining true to the feminist agenda with which she started her reign over a year ago.
In a structure built in homage to female artist Niki de Saint Phalle, with mosaic mirrored tiles covering walls, beams and posts, Chiuri presented her Spring/Summer ’18 collection. A copy of Linda Nochlin’s feminist essay “Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists” was gifted on each seat, as well as emblazoned across the chest of model Sasha Pivovarova, who opened the show in baggy blue jeans, a striped long sleeved shirt and a page boy cap. Chiuri is here to make a statement, and she is not shying away from her mission.
The collection continued with denim blazers, black suits, hints of leather in a surprising moto jumpsuit with pops of neon blue and yellow, newsboy sacks with fat cross body straps, and a series of high/low shorts flanked by flowing ankle grazing skirts. Chiuri's ubiquitous sheer tulle dresses with square tops and exposed bra lines were present as well, soon to been seen for another season on Instagram It Girls and female celebrities, as were hints of the new Christian Dior logo. Chiuri brought a sense of humor into this collection as well, playing with heart and lizard emblems on oversized sweaters and dresses. This was clearly a collection of the times, one that appeals to a generation less concerned with tradition and more in tune with personal style. It was fun, light hearted, feminist and free, an all over success of the message Chiuri began with at Dior, and clearly a theme we can look forward to seeing more of in the future.
Photos by GERSON LIRIO