DESIGNERS MAKING THEIR NEW YORK FASHION WEEK DEBUT
WHO TO LOOK OUT FOR IN SPRING/SUMMER 2016
For every fashionable girl out there, New York Fashion Week is one of the most exciting times of the year. It’s the time to go out in the City during the day and dress up, mingle and think about the new thrilling things that will soon be in your closet. It’s also the time to check out the fashion shows schedules right before the fashion month starts so you don’t miss out on anything. But most importantly discover new talent. This is exactly what we did, by looking at the very busy fashion week calendar only to realize that some of the listed designers were making their fashion week debut. Let us introduce them to you!
London based designer Han Chong may have debuted his label Self Portrait at NYFW this week, but his brand has been in demand since its inception almost two years ago. Already a celebrity favorite, his first orders from Selfridges and Net-A-Porter sold out within hours. Opting out of a traditional runway presentation, Chong showcased his collection on models adorning a stark white junkyard pile of furniture, which complemented the modern romanticism of his collection. Self Portrait is an amalgamation of feminine styles, with delicate lace and Victorian influences to sexy cut outs and sheer panels, clearly stating the reason for Chong’s quick rise in popularity.
Although his name may not ring a bell (yet) his work is easily recognizable, adorning the world’s biggest pop star, Lady Gaga. Named one of the Hollywood Reporter’s top 25 stylists, Maxwell is responsible for the singer’s 2015 Grammy Awards gown, as well as outfitting her for her “Cheek to Cheek” tour. His Ready to Wear NYFW debut is anticipated to continue the glamour and evening wear success he has enjoyed with Gaga, as well as incorporating more tailored and streamlined pieces. Maxwell has described his woman as powerful and inspirational, with a touch of the avant-garde, clearly drawing motivation from his number one client.
When two seasoned designers and fashion insiders come together to create a new brand, the outcomes are always exciting. Alex Gilbert, founder of Paper Cloth & Denim and Jennifer Noyes, former Prada womenswear director, have joined forces to create the label M. Martin, named for Gilbert’s grandparents who inspired the American sportswear theme of the brand. Classic yet modern staples are the aim of M. Martin, ultra cool and comfortable pieces ranging from denim jackets, to chunky knits and fresh button downs. Although the brand quietly launched last year, this is their first showing at NYFW.
Calvin Klein alum Max Gengos has already enjoyed a certain amount of success and exposure, most notably for a custom piece he created for Kylie Jenner’s recent Teen Vogue cover. Yet his NYFW debut is set to introduce the young designer to the world. The theme of his collection is “Neo-Tropico” playing with bright colors in shades of green and pink, filled with simple, elegant dresses and garments with a young, lady-like appeal. Gengos also heavily advertises the term “Responsible Luxury” when describing his brand, and takes great pride in the artisanal sourcing and production of each of his garments, upholding standards to ensure the quality and production of his garments.
Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim met when they were both designers for Oscar de la Renta. Fast forward a few years and the couple are married and together they’re launching their line Monse. Having already been seen adorning fashion heavyweights Sarah Jessica Parker and Amal Clooney, the line has yet to even been put up for sale, but with those names backing it, no doubt Monse’s NYFW debut is sure to attract attention. The collection is playful, drawing inspiration from a basic button down shirt, yet displaying it in creative ways. There is billowing structure and unexpected sex appeal. The Monse woman definitely wants to stand out in a crowd.
Area designers Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk made their label’s NYFW debut at the Standard Hotel, sending models out to mingle amongst huge white spheres on the floor, giving the collection a surrealist vibe. The two designers met at Parsons and cofounded Area in 2013. Their debut collection was inspired by make-up, specifically the shine and gloss of photographer Irving Penn’s famous smears, which was translated into fabric, creating color palettes for the pair’s signature embossing technique. The manipulation of fabrics resulted in a style that could be described as “disco minimalism”, shiny, iridescent textiles with modern structure and detail. Not to be overlooked are Area’s shoes and accessories, inspired by Victorian era footwear displayed on Lucite holders at the Metropolitan Museum.
Edited by Anne-Isabelle Saint- Pierre
Photographs courtesy of teenvogue.com, harparsbazaar.com, fastcodesign.com, www.deuxhommesmag.com