With his long reign at the house of Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld succeeded his previous collection work with Silvia Venturini Fendi with the presentation of the Spring/Summer 2017 collection. Lagerfeld emphasized the Rococo period with an almost techno mergence. Lagerfeld explained his shows influences as deriving from Neopolitan porcelain figurines, called Capodimonte and Marie Antoinette’s château on the grounds of Versailles, Petit Trianon. Fendi’s Karl modernized such influences in an ability to transport Marie Antoinette into modern world as a contemporary woman.
The confectionary palette consisted of sorbet shades of apricot, blush pink and pale mint, accompanied by tones of scarlet, burgundy and marigold stripes. French florals were accentuated by metallic details, most intriguing when across cloque jacquards. Textures were a strong focus in the collection, as can be expected referencing Lagerfeld’s design archive for the brand. Encrusted tulle and fantasy intarsia were decadent in their delivery. Fur appeared to take a backseat in this collection, as once the collections were heavily revolved around such. Lingerie resembling pieces wore cutout butterflies and scalloped edges. Silk underpants peaked below silver tinted apron ties. Gilded fabric and leather floral embroideries accented collection pieces including a khaki jacket and trench coat.
The Fendi accessories showed no less importance throughout the show. Little frame bags were heavily decorated with brocade florals, rosebuds and obvious whipstitcching. The knitted sock boots were repeated throughout the collection in various styles, whether striped or confectionary colored. Not to go unnoticed was the debut of the new Kan I stud lock bag, dotted with candy-colored studs, floral ribbons and rosette embroidery.
The Fendi duo further delved into their inspiration explaining, “It was very much inspired by the Rome show, the intonation of the event and that idea of legends and fairy tales. So we were inspired by legendary women like Marie Antoinette, whose clothes were strict but who was very open to breaking rules.” In doing so, the collection was feminine in its design, but rebellious in its nature, creating a stimulatingly unique composure.
Photos courtesey of fendi.com and vogue.com
Visual editor JALAL MOUGHRABY