The setting was beyond imaginable. For the first time the Palais de Justice in Paris was used for a fashion show; and it was truly stunning. Claire Waight Keller finally made her debut at Givenchy as the new creative director—the first women to take over the creative helm (girl power). To create the collection she looked inside the brand’s archives and presented styles inspired by Monsieur Givenchy’s designs in a way that none of her predecessors did before as WWD stated. Taking some original sketches from the maison’s founder as main inspiration, she knew she wanted to emphasise shoulders on 80’s inspired silhouettes. She also chose two original prints; clover from 1961, and animal motifs from 1981.
The color palette was mostly black and white (very Givenchy) with red and touches of mint. Military coats, perfect tailoring mixed with sporty pieces, and logomania in a very subtle way. Paired with almost every look, cowboy-esque boots because they’re the coolest according to Waight Keller, and fanny packs—those rejected by fashion in the past.
Waight Keller is no alien to menswear. Her first take for the Parisian maison was based on androgyny—tailored jackets, straight pants, leather bomber jackets, and sleeveless shirts.
A touching homage to the classic LBD closed the show—what screams more Givenchy than the iconic Little Black Dress? With Monsieur Givenchy’s blessing, the British designer delivered a peculiar collection that didn’t fill the gothic void left by Riccardo Tisci. She certainly didn’t deliver the wow factor the maison is known for. However this isn’t a complete deception; for what is worth, Waight Keller was trend orientated—or whatever that may mean in this pragmatic world.
Written by JIMENA SAMPATARO
Edited by MARÍA JOSÉ GONZÁLVEZ
Photos Courtesy of VOGUE RUNWAY