Gucci kicked off Milan Fashion Week with a sense of eerie tranquility in a space with over 250,000 mirrored sequins bordering a curved runway. The show began with an intense, mesmerizing message instructing the audience to relax, while choreographed eyes blinked the screen, imagery categorized by Gucci as Phantasmagoria: a sequence of real or fictional images like those seen in a dream. Following was a symphony of spiritual transcendent music, accompanied by what could be depicted as dramatic flashes of lightening. The show music began with a woman’s voice over a soundtrack, producing a slightly unsettling atmosphere with a melancholic sentiment.
A prominent 1980’s aesthetic ruled heavily throughout Gucci’s SS17 collection. Vivid disco brights wore the collection with a confident abundance of sequin and shimmer. Block stripes resembling hot ‘80’s nights striped the likes of pantsuits and jackets, while also taking design to a fluid, tiered, fringed dress. In coinciding with the notion of texture, a translucent disc skirt walked the collection, adding to the forecast and prediction for the approaching season, as the style was included in several other noted collections this month. An eggshell blue pantsuit studded at the seams and fabricated in suede was as desirable as it was captivating.
A sky blue jacket was styled back to a GG cube print silk shirt and emerald flares. The same flares walked the collection in crème with red embroidery reading LOVED on the bottom seam of one leg. Gucci’s Creative Director Alessandro Michele stressed the eccentric value of color in his statement introducing the SS17 collection, “Color is the soul of fashion, if you change the color of a dress, you change the dress. Color and dimension transform it into an illusion".
In a collection of reigning excess and decadence, Michele proved richness is determined in details. Baseball jersey tees were designed in silk and saturated appliqués. Japanese influences traced kimonos with serpent-like motions. Floral embroidered gowns were cinched with CEMETERY belts, whilst other looks were paired with FUTURE labeled handbags. Tiered gowns and collars added a Victorian aesthetic accompanied by a morbid, lullaby-esque portrayal of Great Expectation’s tragic character Miss Havisham.
Edited by ELIZABETH KRAMSKY
Photos courtesey of gucci.com and vogue.com
Visual editor JALAL MOUGHRABY