It’s been 12 years since Helmut Lang left his eponymous brand and started a new life far away from fashion as a sculptor. During the 90’s, the Austrian designer created chameleonic clothes to be worn in the coolest way. His influence has spammed brands like Alexander Wang, Vetements, and Yeezy as a clear source of inspiration and reference.
Slip dresses with biker boots, oversized bomber jackets, and paint-spattered jeans were Lang’s first creations. After the brand was sold to Prada and later to the conglomerate who owns Uniqlo, they decided to relaunch it. Isabella Burley, the renowned British fashion editor, is now leading the brand and will invite guest designers for a season or two. Shayne Oliver, ex-Hood by the Air, was the first designer to be part of this major collaboration outline.
The iconic bra made a comeback reimagined as a bag, whilst leather and lightweight fabrics were merged into oversized pieces. With a clear androgynous vibe the collection was the epitome of modern anti-fashion. Archive pieces were recreated and styled as if the 90’s were coming back. With fashion being cyclical, it seemed like the perfect time to revive the brand, though there were voids to be filled—probably a consequence of the absent years. However, Shayne Oliver still has a lot to give to a brand that once inspired so many, yet he delivered a collection where his signature aesthetic was synthesised with Lang’s background—just as it should’ve been.
Written by JIMENA SAMPATARO
Edited by MARÍA JOSÉ GONZÁLVEZ
Visual Editor OLGA SOROKINA
Photos by JUSTIN NUÑEZ