Since one or two years ago, the Cruise shows have been the occasion for big brands to show a new collection in an event organized abroad. This time, Nicolas Ghesquière decided to create his event in Palm Springs, in the American comedian Bob Hope's house.
Modern, avant-garde, and futuristic, the house is the image of Ghesquière's fashion, representing his timeless and groundbreaking style. The lines of the silhouettes are combined with the building's geometry. The clear and pure structures of the dresses show a certain opposition. California rhymes with freedom, relaxed attitudes and with a sophisticated way of life. As such, Nicolas Ghesquière played with this idea of freedom which is nowadays constantly attacked and threatened by emerging issues happening all around the world.
How to stay impermeable to the rules, the periods, and the styles which are succeeding all over the centuries, how to build something durable, that lasts and lets dream, like this breathtaking house? The answers to these questions remains uncertain, but Nicolas made a point: his women are definitely going to be part of tomorrow's world, fighting against injustice and planet issues. They are global influencers, inspiring the world for its future.
This whole show is about the future. Once again, when it's not a collection in the contemporary Fondation Vuitton in Paris, it's in a venue that gathers the same conditions: resembling an aircraft ready to leave for another system. We all know how dear this theme is to Nicolas, and we were in total approval when looking at these modern women: we loved the leather high waisted mini-shorts combined with bomber jackets!
It's a very simple collection, with long straight dresses that raise femininity to another level and patterns resembling churches' stained glass giving tone to the show. We also see Ghesquière's signature: mixtures of fabrics with bands of fine lace embroidered on refined lace, the master of leather with this unique long dress in leather lace, crocodile skin in coats or applied on dresses...
Exceptional savoir-faire for this pre-spring collection. Freedom, the master word, is subtly unveiling a natural appeal, where crossed strips are liberating the woman and enhancing a new aesthetic. We definitely took off for a parallel universe for some 15 minutes under the lyrics which told us to "travel through the ages".
Written by Hadrien Lacoste
Edited by Jennifer Certad
Photos Courtesy from Maxim Sapozhnikov, LV press archives