For his Maison Margiela “Artisanal” couture show, John Galliano spent some time thinking about the premise and execution of glamour, that easy adjective that is well spent in every day life, yet so hard to define on a mass scale. To add to the weight of that mighty task, Galliano also wanted to explore the idea of speedy, effortless fashion; namely what would a glamorous woman throw on in the heat of a moment, to make a quick exit or to escape in haste? His inspiration landed on the humble trench coat, the most iconic accomplice of easy, glamorous dressing, and from there let his infamous imagination run wild.
The simplicity of Galliano’s color palate this season, consisting of various shades of beige, black and white, with the occasional pop of blue of gold, was essential to even begin to take in all of the masterful detail and reworking of the garments. Imagine the Margiela runway as a surgical operating table, the patient is a classic trench coat. Dr. Galliano steps up, and with the utmost respect, creativity and precision, begins to cut, dice, maneuver and alter the patient until it is a better version of it’s previous self, repeating this task over and over, yet never losing sight of the patient’s original beauty.
Shapes varied from the classic trench silhouette, with tied, cinched waistlines, to oversized with low hanging sleeves and sharply jutting appendages. Some of the strongest looks had detached sleeves, introducing the upper arm as the new cropped midriff trend. Fabrics ranged from heavy tweed and pops of leather, to soft chiffon and sheer tulle, creating a hard/soft motif that so often epitomizes encompassing glamour. Tan fabric was reworked to mimic the inside perforation of a cardboard box, ribbed and shredded as if being torn apart.
Of course, this being a Galliano runway, the clothing itself was not complete without the final touches of hair and make up, dutifully documented via Instagram by the master herself, Pat McGrath. Galliano wanted a “fast lip”, and what better way to convey glamour than with a deep set red? Hair was strategically styled as if to appear that this woman was in such a glamorous rush, she didn't even bother to rinse the shampoo out of her hair, resulting in foamy, white layers topping off some models, other adorned in slick layers of blue and gold dye.
Written by ELIZABETH KRAMSKY
Visual Editor OLGA SOROKINA
Photos Courtesy of VOGUE RUNWAY and GETTY IMAGES