As the fashion world continues on the path towards modernism, both on and off the runway, targeting millennial customers with social media and Instagrammable shows, Marc Jacobs took a surprising turn to embrace theatrics of a bygone era for his NYFW show evening.
Jacobs, whose career both as Head Designer at Louis Vuitton and at his own fashion house has always featured a great deal of showmanship, brought the artistry back in a big way after his last two relatively low-key Fashion Week presentations. The show’s heavy silhouettes, bright colors, and strong layers were reminiscent of history’s most memorable fashions, and each look, despite the evening’s drama, proved incredibly wearable for those of us whose runways are simply the street.
The Marc Jacobs presentation began with models strutting down the runway wrapped up in extremely oversized, colorful cashmere coats with matching scarves, blouses, and high-waisted pants and skirts with menswear-inspired overcoats. Each look featured a collection of different materials, from leather to velvet and tweed to silk, in rich colors and patterns like polka-dots and plaids. The outfits appeared to have personalities of their own, with at least one standout detail on each, whether a long fur stole, a trendy belt bag (fanny pack) or the model’s hair dyed to match the ensemble. The entire collection was a feast for the eyes, as the divine details that went into each and every look made clear, and to turn away for just a moment would have been to miss the mastery that went into each piece. In that sense, a fashion show setting proved almost too casual a setting for Jacob’s fine garb, as the few seconds permitted to view each ensemble was all too fleeting.
The Park Avenue Armory, the venue for Jacobs’s Fall/Winter 2018 show proved the perfect space for the evening. With simple wood floors providing a narrow, spotlit runway, and big names like Lil Kim and Cardi B gracing the front row, all attention was on the 1980s-inspired collection.During what many see as a tumultuous time in American history, Jacobs, unlike other designers, left his politics on the runway. The collection’s 80’s revival felt like more than just some bold shoulders and neck flourishes, the designer perhaps drawing parallels between the tax cut and rolling back of social rights of the decade and what is currently happening in Washington. Whether or not the acclaimed designer had politics in mind in creating his current collection, the oversized shapes, thick, heavy fabrics, and vintage appeal made his clothes stand out from the trends currently dominating fashion month.
The hairstyles and makeup seen behind-the-scenes and on the runway of show were also nostalgic in nature, with bright, rainbow-colored bowl cuts and glittering eyes adding to the theatrical theme. The beauty choices for the night were bold and eye-catching whilst taking nothing away from the clothing, which was of course the star of the show. In coordinating, dark-toned shades, nails and eyes complimented each outfit, and the colorful hair trends were tamed enough to keep the focus on everything happening below the neck.
As one of the last show’s of what has been an eventful New York Fashion Week, Marc Jacobs brought color, texture, and shape back to the runway in the most theatrical and artistic way possible, proving that only he knows how to truly put the “show” back in fashion show.
Written by Gabby Shacknai
Visuals by Olga Sorokina
Photo courtesey of indigital.tv, vogue.com