It’s no secret that Prada and sister brand Miu Miu have always had a penchant for the colourful pomp and fluff, but Tuesday’s Miu Miu show brought this trend to new extremes. The setting of the show alone—the entryway, benches, pillars, and grand staircase of the Palais d’Iéna was coated in lilac-coloured shagpile carpet—should have been a good indication of what was to come on the runway. The centrepiece of the collection was seemingly the dozens of goofy and drastically oversized coats that floated down the catwalk atop a series of playful, although perhaps not the most sensible, fur-coated rainboots. The line emphasized happy, spring hues, despite its being a fall/winter collection, and full feminine silhouettes, serving as the gleeful cherry on top of a memorable Paris Fashion Week.
The classical 1937 Auguste Perret-designed structure, Palais d’Iéna, may have seemed like an odd choice of venue for the debut of Miu Miu’s latest collection, but the setting proved a clean, highly adaptable space for the Seventies-style line. Although many editors, bloggers, and stars rushed out of Paris shortly after Tuesday morning’s Chanel show, and those who did not likely felt they had overstayed their welcome, the remaining fashion elite flocked to the purple carpet. From Anna de la Russo and Chiara Ferragni to Maisie Williams and Lara Stone, the industry’s biggest names embraced old and new Miu Miu designs and trends, but all were rich with colour.
Miu Miu’s rainbow of a collection was simultaneously embracing two often-opposing things, glamour and comfort. This anomaly was largely made possible by the various fur looks that came wrapped upon the many (surely very hot) models, as they walked down the shagadelic runway. A teddy bear coat with an ultra-wide collar and rhinestoned belt was fashioned over a turquoise mohair skirt and heeled saddle shoes. A translucent, plastic coat was topped with a violet-colored fur color and cap was worn over a simple tan and coral-striped ensemble, and several outfits were paired with rubber and fur rainboots. The collection was, in many ways, a symbiosis of nostalgic, 70s glam and textures and modern patterns and silhouettes. Everything was over the top, and even the simplest of pieces was met with at least a crazy accessory or two. This retro vibe pulsated throughout the show, only heightened by the carefully curated styling, but many looks, particularly the bomber jackets with stripes around the elbows were extremely current.
Miuccia Prada noted the brand’s focus on a casting of diverse models, of different ethnicities, skin tones, and body types, remarking that “it’s the first time we really got into different beauties.” Following suit in what has been a wildly political Fashion Month, Mrs. Prada said of her collection following the show, “It’s about the madness of glamour in this time, in front of a very uncertain future.” Having said something similarly heavy and political after last season’s show, it seems Prada was attempting to place her fun and feminine designs in an intellectual spotlight. However, loyal Miu Miu fans and customers recognised and embraced that the collections are at face value, girly and playful in that signature eccentric Miu Miu manner.
Written by GABBY SHACKNAI
Photos by GERSON LIRIO
Visual Editor OLGA SOROKINA