New York Fashion Week is one of the most exclusive events in the world; and somehow designers are leaving their time slot vacant. Brands like Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Tommy Hilfiger, and Rebecca Minkoff, to name a few, are in search of a new home or simply playing nomads. New York Fashion Week is not as powerful as it once was. Times are changing and social media may be responsible for it. As editors and journalists loose their power against ‘it girls’ and influencers—now, the owners of front rows—magazines see them as a medium to survive and stay ‘cool.’
Glamourised by famous T.V. show “Sex & the City,” New York Fashion Week gained exclusivity, and became the place to be. But as social media rose, there is no need for an invitation to be part of the experience. Having access to every behind-the-scenes moment via any social platform, aficionados can stay in the know with just one touch. With brands spending colossal amounts of money, designers are concerned with commercialising their latest collection by swamping social media feeds.
Influencers are one of the key ingredients to make a collection successful. Brands are looking for these young people to appeal the market. Rebecca Minkoff is the perfect example, showing her Spring/Summer 2017 collection at The Grove shopping centre in L.A., using influencers instead of models to showcase her new creations. It was a complete success, the collection was everywhere and sales increased. Tommy Hilfiger also decided to leave New York, and head to L.A.—this upcoming season to London—to showcase his collection in collaboration with favourite model Gigi Hadid. Proenza Schouler fused its ready-to-wear collection and pre-collection unto one presentation for Haute Couture Week in Paris. This allowed the collection to have a longer retail existence.
Having the most hectic and tight schedule during fashion month, New York Fashion Week demands a restructure. Being packed with crowds, it’s almost impossible to appreciate clothes, resulting in complaints or worst, omission. Leaving designers with no alternative rather than relocating their shows or formulating new ways to appeal guests—uniting womenswear and menswear unto one presentation or use influencers as models—they are now contemplating the panorama beyond the runway show.
With information travelling at the speed of light, a collection seems dull by the time it arrives to stores. To fill this void, brands are taking the opportunity to reach out new customers by moving their shows onto other fashion cities. If they want to survive, they must shift their strategy, for it has become a fast-paced industry with no turning back.
Written by JIMENA SAMPATARO
Edited by MARÍA JOSÉ GONZÁLVEZ
Visual Editor OLGA SOROKINA