Tom Ford kicked off New York Fashion Week with a Fucking Fabulous bang on Wednesday, showing a collection influenced heavily by the 80’s and 90’s, rekindling some of that Gucci sex appeal where we all fell in love with the designer’s tasteful audacity.

The room was dressed in hot pink lighting, drenching the crowd in feminine, sexy hues. The A list front row was full of frequent Ford collaborators such as Julienne Moore and Carine Roitfeld, as well as a blond Kim Kardashian, Cindy Crawford and Helena Christensen, both sparkling head to hemline in Tom Ford of course.

The collection kicked off with Binx Walton in a glimmering metallic silver top, covered by a strong shouldered pink suit jacket, pink shorts and magenta pumps with the toe and heel dipped in white. A selection of sportswear followed with plunging body suits cut high on the hip, paired with low slung baggy pants. The suit jackets continued down the runway in various forms, Ford clearly taking a cue from his successful menswear designs, in white, black, denim and leather. Hemlines were thrown out the window as Walton made her second walk in a silver and blue crystal encrusted dress (shirt?) with a matching yellow follow up on Lexi Boling, that exposed lower cheek cleavage from behind (new trend?). The immediate must have on everyone’s mind were the effortless jumpsuits in both black and white, that from the front scooped low on the cleavage, hanging lose and carefree on the body, while completely backless and insanely sexy from behind. Gigi Hadid ushered in the glamorous evening wear portion of the show in a surprisingly modest pink dress with sparkling sleeves, followed by Kendall Jenner and Joan Smalls in tailored black looks, blending glamour and menswear with tuxedo accents.

Ford definitely called upon a host of influences for this collection: old Hollywood glamour, streetwear, menswear, decades gone by, yet somehow the show still felt perfectly effortless and minimal. The influences were there, but Ford managed to blend them together in cohesive harmony. The abundant use of pink was also a surprise, softening the sex appeal while giving his looks a youthful spirit, a trend of which Ford has previously ignored. There has never been a subtlety to Ford’s designs, but that is why we love him. For while the collections will change season to season, the taste, emphasis and utter glamour will always stay purely Tom Ford.