This season of fashion month proved dynamic in evolution, as each city embraced a forward momentum and cultural shift as reflected in Autumn Winter 2017 collections.
New York included exemplary trends that amidst a societal burst of creativity.
Yellow velvet strengthened its presence and proved prominent throughout the week. Collections gravitated towards hues of goldenrod and saffron, as a more forgiving, reinterpreted version of the golden tone. It was evident of the inclusion of yellow by designers, collections were elevated with the cooperation if the color manifested in velvet. Altuzarra, Jason Wu, Zero + Maria Cornejo, Baja East and Creatures of Comfort successfully incorporated this trend in their Autumn Winter 2017 collections alluding to richness and a textural aesthetic.
Wine stained hues were present in a series of collections appearing in bordeaux reds and blackberry violets. The rich, regal palette was functioned in ready to wear separates, dresses and suits. Victoria Beckham walked the dazzling jewel tones alongside designers among the likes of Prabal Gurung, Marc Jacobs, Derek Lam and Delpozo.
The season produced a strong story for variegated checks, plaids and grid prints. Observed most commonly on oversized constructed jackets, pantsuits, and skirts, the reimagined print proved versatile and functional for the Autumn Winter 2017 season. Maryam Nassir Zadeh executed checks and plaids exceptionally, as did Jeremy Scott, Calvin Klein, Thom Browne, Jenny Packham, Altuzarra and Creatures of the Wind.
Oversized jackets, extending further into suit jackets, were predominantly popular on the runway this season. Oscar de la Renta, Calvin Klein, Victoria Beckham, Delpozo and Jason Wu exceeded pre existing expectations with their impeccable inclusion of structured, oversized jackets that transformed silhouettes.
Asymmetric draping elevated dresses for Autumn Winter 2017. Fabric slung, draped from shoulders or waistlines exemplified from collections by Diane von Furstenberg, Jil Stuart, Proenza Schouler and Cushnie et Ochs.
London advanced their presence during fashion week through substantially talented collections and trend execution.
Voluminous shoulders were a key takeaway from London Fashion Week. Structured in their dynamic design, the shoulders often accentuated the petite upper torso of the feminine form. Vivienne Westwood walked exceptional voluminous designs, as well as Peter Pilotto, Chalayan, Mary Katrantzou and Marques Almeida.
Lavender was the color of London for Autumn Winter 2017. The lilac, muted violet hue promised to be a strong color tone for next fall, executed by Marques Almeida, Mulberry, Erdem, House of Holland and Christopher Kane.
Cropped silhouettes confirmed their mainstay, as London designers continued the reign of this trend reinterpreted, reworked and reimagined throughout collection pieces. Whether stand alone crops, with a sheer overlay, or in the form of textured sweaters, Versus, Gareth Pugh, Preen by Thorton Bregazzi and House of Holland experimented in creating newness within a firm, existing trend.
Floral practiced anything but subtlety at this season’s shows. Repeated as a recurring print throughout the week, designers adapted a fuller, greater surface space for florals. Collections supporting this trend included David Koma, J.W. Anderson, Mary Katrantzou, Christopher Kane and Pringle of Scotland.
In relating to accessories, massive oversized accessories made a statement during London Fashion Week. A tell tale assurance of next fall’s jewelry direction, Vivienne Westwood, Simone Rocha, Peter Pilotto, Christopher Kane and Marques Almeida incorporated bold, playfulness.
Milan spoke to the lasting heritage of Italian fashion houses, whilst expressing a necessity to adapt to the inevitable evolution of fashion.
Colorful furs walked the runway not just expectedly within fur-dominant fashion houses but instead incorporated by various designers in their collections. Elevated furs were printed or geometrically enticing, however the strongest notion was the experimental colors of fur witnessed repetitively throughout the shows in Milan. Most obviously noted from Fendi, Prada, Versace, Missoni, Marni, Fendi, Emilio Pucci, Agnona, Blumarine and Marco de Vincenzo.
An unexpected pleasure during Milan Fashion Week was the use of plastic incorporated into ready-to-wear. As topcoats, overlays or wearable separates, plastic glossed runway looks of Emilio Pucci, Emporio Armani, and Dolce & Gabbana.
The primary print observed happened to be animal. Animal print was reworked but remained very prevalent in the collections designed for next fall. Gucci, Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana and Alberta Ferretti incorporated the trend.
Velvet, as witnessed from the preceding cities, attending Milan Fashion Week, becoming nearly expectant to be seen on the runway. Incredibly versatile and transcendent, the fabric was manifested in every fashion imaginable. Neil Barrett, Aquiliano Rimondi, Alberta Ferretti and Emporio Armani took advantage of the fluid fabric alongside Gucci, Antonio Marras, Max Mara and Giorgio Armani.
All types of embroidery were directional for Fall Winter 2017 and immediately welcomed due to their creative execution designed by houses Prada, Antonio Marras, Versace, N21, Alberta Ferretti and Etro.
Paris closed the month of collection shows in their consistent finale-production they provide each season.
Futuristic silver was adored during Paris Fashion Week. The silver aesthetic incorporated into collections was taken immediately as one of those observant wearable trends when executed properly. With a semblance to futurism, Mugler, Loewe, Paco Rabbane, Lemaire, Chanel, Off-White, and Comme des Garcons practiced the trend.
Voluminous puffer jackets dominated the city. A trend that perhaps initiated several seasons ago with Vetements, a confirmative reassurance was given that oversized puffers will be present next fall season. The inclusion of voluminous puffer jackets was observed by Y Project, Sacai, Balenciaga and Kenzo.
A prevalent notion during Paris Fashion Week was Victorian collars. The whimsical collars were functioned on imaginable garments, adding a touch of delicateness whilst exuding pure extravagance. Victorian collars graced the collections of Elie Saab, Valentino, Hermes, Redemption, Lanvin, Undercover, Nina Ricci and Giambattista Valli.
Designers relied on the mainstay of large bags and chose to willingly incorporate the trend in the Fall Winter 2017 collections. As a versatile, transitional but ultimately wearable trend, french fashion houses banked on the immediate interpretation of this trend. Designers among the likes of Issey M., Dries van Noten, Celine, Acne, Balenciaga, Kenzo included this trend in their forecast for the next fall season.
Asymmetric deconstruction appeared much more than once, and quickly became a realized trend for Fall Winter 2017. The incorporation produced an abstract treat for the eye and a more dynamic sense of styling for the wearer. Asymmetric deconstruction was practiced by Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, Yohji Yamamoto, Loewe, Louis Vuitton, T Project, Lemaire and Paco Rabbane.
Written by JENNIFER PACCIONE
Visual editor OLGA SOROKINA